Mushrooms, Folklore and the Polish Diaspora in Britain: Differing Views on the Mushroom

A Polish shop on the corner of a junction. A sign saying Polski Sklep is situated to the side of the entrance.
My local Polish Shop © Folking Funghi 2020
 I have been lucky enough over my 30 years in Britain to have lived amongst some wonderfully diverse communities. I have never been more than a few minutes walk away from shops offering fresh Indian naan glistening with garlic butter, Taiwanese Bubble Teas with intensely chewy tapioca pearls nestled amongst the sweet milk tea or shelves and shelves packed full of Polish pierogi and deliciously spicy kielbasa. I live just a 5-minute walk from my local Polski Sklep (Polish shop) and I can often be found wandering the aisles with Google Translate on hand to discover new delicacies I wouldn’t spot in the local Tesco Extra.

Whilst wandering the aisles I have often been drawn to the colourful displays of pickled and dried mushrooms on offer. Aside from the occasional wild mushroom soup or dried Shitiake mushroom, it is rare to find anything more exotic than a chestnut or button mushroom on British supermarket shelves. My local Polski Sklep, however, offers Chanterelles, Penny Caps and Bay Boletes straight from the woodlands and grasslands of Poland. A delight to an amateur mycologist such as myself and intriguing to anyone studying the folklore of food.

The Polish community began to become more prominent in England when the European Union enlarged to include 8 more European countries in 2004. With Poland now a member of the EU, Polish people were able to move to the UK to live and work more freely than those who had previously settled in post-war Britain in the 1940s. Polish migrants began to arrive in large numbers, quickly securing their place as one of the largest immigrant groups in Britain and, as a result, Polish grocery shops like the one near my own home began to become more common on British streets.

 The UK media (especially tabloid newspapers such as The Sun and The Daily Mail) tend to present an image of contemporary Polish migrants as being young Polish men looking for short term work in low skilled manual labour before returning home with their wages. This image often comes loaded with negativity and political bias towards Polish immigrants and with it comes implications of ‘job-stealing’ that have fuelled racial tensions between Polish people and their adopted communities1. The reality is more complex than the stereotype presented 2, with many families and younger people also choosing to make a life here for a multitude of complex reasons but universally bringing with them their customs and traditions. Of course, these communities often find themselves adopting some traditions from Britain as they forge their own way of life as a member of the diaspora. 

Sadly, there are few archives that contain the histories and stories of this immigrant group in the English language, possibly due to the relatively small time there has been a considerable Polish population in the UK. However, there is a wealth of information to be found on Polish customs and traditions. This includes Polish migrant blogs telling their own experiences, academic studies, websites such as the Polish Cultural Institute and Culture.plYouTube vloggers, social media groups such as Polish Food, Traditions and Fun and pages such as I Love Poland.

Wild Mushrooms at a Street Market, Kraków, 1931
Photo: www.audiovis.nac.gov.pl (NAC)
Amongst the most treasured of Polish customs and traditions lies the art of mushroom picking, and with it the cooking and eating of wild, foraged mushrooms in everything from soups, sauces, pierogi and even pizzas and omelettes3. Whilst mushrooms are low in nutrients compared to other foraged plants and fruits, Poland and many other Slavic nations hold mushrooms highly in their cultural heritage and they often feature in stories, illustrations, poetry and folk beliefs4 as well as on the dinner table.

Wooden Baba Yaga Figurine with Fly Agaric.
 Photo: Polish Art Centre 2020
Mushroom picking is mentioned in Adam Mickiewicz’ 12-part saga, Pan Tadeusz, often reported to be Europe’s last great epic poem where the saga tells the tale of Polish and Lithuanian nobles and their love of life in the countryside of Eastern Europe5. Mushrooms also feature repeatedly in Polish folk stories (once a man went mushroom picking can be thought of as a Slavic once upon a time) and are often found in both Polish and Russian illustrations depicting the famous witch Baba Yaga. Some scholars theorise that the name Baba could be linked to the Polish word babka, which is used to describe the mushroom Boletus Edulis or Penny Bun/Cep as it is often known in Britain6. With both Baba Yaga and mushroom picking both heavily ingrained in the cultural traditions surrounding Polish forests it is no surprise that the two are intertwined in some way.

Mushrooms can also be found in Polish folk song as seen in the White Ruthenian wedding song ‘Nas Malady Jak Suraweska (Our Bridegroom is Like a Mushroom)’ where the bridegroom is complimented for being as sturdy and fresh as a young mushroom according to Folklorists H. Iwanowska and H. Onslow7. As mushrooms are also often linked with fertility and phallic symbolism with the Latin name of the Stinkhorn mushroom being Phallus Impudicus and many mushrooms famed for their phallic nature8 this may have also been a nod to the bridegroom’s virility, although this is just my own personal theory. Whatever the meaning behind the description, it is clear the importance placed on the humble funghi when featured in a celebratory song for an important time in a couple's lives.

White Ruthenian Folk Song - Our bridegroom is like a mushroom.
Collected by H. Iwanowska and H. Onslow.  Photo: Folklore Vol 35 No 2
 1924

Whilst Britain also has a rich history of traditions and folk tales based around mushrooms, Britain has a very different attitude to mushrooms than the Polish communities who have migrated here. Where Poland and other Eastern European countries are said to be mycophilic, with a passion for mushrooms and a rich folk knowledge of mushroom identifying (and eating) accrued over centuries, many Western Europeans countries, including Britain, are more mycophobic in nature, where mushrooms are viewed with suspicion and even feared. Very few hunt mushrooms in the woodlands for dinner, and those that do are often seen as somewhat eccentric (myself included). This cautious and sometimes fearful attitude to Britain’s funghi is often reflected in our folklore with British common names for mushrooms including the Devil’s Horns, Witch’s Butter and Dead Man’s Fingers and stories of fairy rings (rings of mushrooms that often appear overnight) frequently involving terrible consequences for those who cross into them8.  

From the Renaissance period up until the Victorian era when the Fly Agaric (Amanita Muscaria) became synonymous with fairy tales (thanks to folklorists of the time illustrating folk tales with the little red and white spotted mushroom and authors such as Lewis Carroll featuring them heavily in their work) most references to mushrooms in British lore were associated with rot, poison, decay and animal dung and were frequently accompanied by warnings and cautions9.

Edmund Gayton, The art of longevity, or, A diæteticall instition (1659), Folger Shakespeare Library

When hoping to understand the experiences of migrants in Britain it is important to understand these cultural differences that shape the way we understand the world around us and form our beliefs and traditions. Over my next two blog posts I will further examine the impact that these mycophilic vs mycophobic cultures have on the Polish migrants who come to Britain. I will also be looking at how their traditions and folk beliefs surrounding mushrooms are adapted for a different countryside and how mushrooms (whether picking them, cooking them or eating them) have acted as a source of nostalgia, community cohesion and, on occasion, tensions amongst the Polish migrant communities and the communities they have been adopted into.


References

1 Spigelman, A. (2013), The depiction of Polish migrants in the United Kingdom by the British press after Poland's accession to the European UnionInternational Journal of Sociology and Social Policy, Vol. 33 No. 1/2, pp. 98-113. https://doi.org/10.1108/01443331311295208

2  Cook, J. Dwyer, P & Waite, L. (2011) The Experiences of Accession 8 Migrants in England: Motivations, Work and Agency. International Migration, Vol 49 No 2, pp 54-79. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2435.2009.00595.x

3 Tasting Poland (2017) Mushrooms in Polish Cuisine and Tradition of Mushroom Hunting. Tasting Poland. https://www.tastingpoland.com/food/mushrooms_in_polish_cuisine.html

4 Łuczaj, L & Nieroda, Z (2011) Collecting and Learning to Identify Edible Fungi in Southeastern Poland: Age and Gender Differences. Ecology of Food and Nutrition Vol 50 No 4, pp 319-336. https://doi-org.ezproxy.herts.ac.uk/10.1080/03670244.2011.586314

5 The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica (2020) Adam Mickiewicz - Polish Poet. Britannica.com. https://www.britannica.com/biography/Adam-Mickiewicz-Polish-poet 

6 Dugan, Frank. (2017). Baba Yaga and the Mushrooms. FUNGI Magazine, Vol 10. pp 6-18. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/319162721_Baba_Yaga_and_the_Mushrooms

7 Iwanowska, H. & Onslow, H. (1924). Some White Ruthenian Folk-Songs, IVFolklore, Vol 35 No 2, pp 166-175. http://www.jstor.org/stable/1256489

8 Money, N. (2017) Mushrooms: A Natural and Cultural History. Reaktion Books: London

9 Jay, M. (2020) Funghi, Folklore and Fairyland.  The Public Domain Review. https://publicdomainreview.org/essay/fungi-folklore-and-fairyland/



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